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  1. #51
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    Speaking of getting ready - Kev's question on another thread reminds me.. compressors for spraying - you said "The compressor will also make a big difference on final finish, you don't want pulsing from a recip compressor."

    I have one of those generic V-twin 50L compressors (basically this but unbranded:
    https://www.sgs-engineering.com/sc50v-50l-compressor) - am I right in thinking I'd really need a larger air tank and a belt-drive compressor to keep up with any volume of spraying? 100L or bigger?

    I was really hoping to get a "silent" compressor next (like this - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184136791459) but I am not sure they have enough cfm..
    My DeDion build diary..
    Hon Sec of the Digidash branch of the Unpopular Kit Car Design club

  2. #52
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    West Sussex
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    9,496
    A mate of mine has just bought one of these:
    https://jjairsystems.co.uk/product/t...hoCjIAQAvD_BwE


    Comments appreciated.
    Crendon Chassis No.49
    Huddart FE428 + toploader

    Not listed in the Shelby Register.

  3. #53
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Reading, Berks, UK.
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    1,697
    Quote Originally Posted by KevinW View Post
    A mate of mine has just bought one of these:
    https://jjairsystems.co.uk/product/t...hoCjIAQAvD_BwE


    Comments appreciated.
    painting his fence with it ?

  4. #54
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Reading, Berks, UK.
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    Quote Originally Posted by aaronjb View Post
    Speaking of getting ready - Kev's question on another thread reminds me.. compressors for spraying - you said "The compressor will also make a big difference on final finish, you don't want pulsing from a recip compressor."

    I have one of those generic V-twin 50L compressors (basically this but unbranded:
    https://www.sgs-engineering.com/sc50v-50l-compressor) - am I right in thinking I'd really need a larger air tank and a belt-drive compressor to keep up with any volume of spraying? 100L or bigger?

    I was really hoping to get a "silent" compressor next (like this - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184136791459) but I am not sure they have enough cfm..
    Hi Aaron, will try and run thru a few things, please excuse me if the answer isn't clear, its not I cant be ar$ed its just sometimes after 40 years of doing this its difficult to get down what you know just works and what doesn't, and yes I know, you cant believe I'm actually that old

    So basics I would say for a bit of home spraying that will give you a nice supply and adequate for a decent gun would be something like 13-15 cfm, 150ltr tank and a 3hp motor..
    Others will tell you it wont work too big too small but for what you will be doing this would be a good starter.

    The tank you have is too small, and I doubt if the compressor would keep up while spraying any large areas.
    The one in the link if my old memory is working with calc would be approx 20 to 24 cfm, so ample supply in theory but the tank is too small.
    I tend to run a 150ltr tank for general use, priming etc but when it comes to the finish I have a 500ltr tank i open up into the system to give me the volume.
    Little tip, I have seen loads of places where they use the tall calor gas cylinders as an added reservoir Safe enough if your connections and plumbing are fine and the blow off valve and the PRV are all on the one system.
    Only worry, where that one comes from, if anything should go wrong, you sending it back or taking it ?

    So pulsing etc, think of the compressor going phut, phut, phut, the reservoir acts as a dampening device to smooth out those pluses, so it goes phsssssssssssssssssssssssssssssssst continuosly out the end of your chosen tool. I have seen big compressor giving loads of cfm but a small tank and you can see the spray pattern due to pulsing, especially on metallics.

    Belt drive or direct drive it doesn't matter.

    I have seen nice finishes with cheap guns, ok if it all goes tits up and you are doing it again, but check out the good painters and professionals, what do they use, and remember it isn't only just because they are doing it all the time its also because the finish when applied from the gun is usually spot on every time, and bosses wont want to hear, " I bought a cheap gun but it cocked up and we have to do it all again"
    Remember for a cob paint with decent materials, base coat and clear, for a reputable supplier, not an fleabay eastern European supplier that decants furniture lacquer into tins and sells it as good gear, will cost you now in the region of £800 to £1200 for your materials, just a guess at the material cost for the last big paint job.

    Mix up 2-4 ltrs of colour and hardener, or clear and hardener, the cheap gun the Google experts told you to get throws a wobbly and you have to dismantle it, down the drain goes £300 to £400 worth of paint setting in the pot, been there.

    There is lots of advice out there old chap, all I can say is read it all and decide carefully,

  5. #55
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    West Sussex
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bigblock View Post
    painting his fence with it ?

    A V-Dub actually. We'll see.....
    Crendon Chassis No.49
    Huddart FE428 + toploader

    Not listed in the Shelby Register.

  6. #56
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Reading, Berks, UK.
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    Quote Originally Posted by KevinW View Post
    A V-Dub actually. We'll see.....
    Same shape really

  7. #57
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Cheshire
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bigblock View Post
    Hi Aaron, will try and run thru a few things, please excuse me if the answer isn't clear, its not I cant be ar$ed its just sometimes after 40 years of doing this its difficult to get down what you know just works and what doesn't.....
    Thanks for posting this, Bigblock; really valuable advice/experience.

  8. #58
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    Reading, Berks, UK.
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    Quote Originally Posted by skinnymathew View Post
    Thanks for posting this, Bigblock; really valuable advice/experience.
    No probs, any time

  9. #59
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Northampton
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bigblock View Post
    Hi Aaron, will try and run thru a few things, please excuse me if the answer isn't clear, its not I cant be ar$ed its just sometimes after 40 years of doing this its difficult to get down what you know just works and what doesn't, and yes I know, you cant believe I'm actually that old
    Surely not a day over 21! Thanks for all that though - all great advice and stuff to take on board..

    I can't decide if it's encouraging or off-putting, though but, let's not put the cart before the horse and all that - I have to get the car mechanically done before it can be cosmetically done!

    I will now begin robbing calor gas cylinders from nearby gardens to build my compressor reservoir system
    My DeDion build diary..
    Hon Sec of the Digidash branch of the Unpopular Kit Car Design club

  10. #60
    Join Date
    Jan 2002
    Location
    Reading, Berks, UK.
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    Quote Originally Posted by aaronjb View Post
    Surely not a day over 21! Thanks for all that though - all great advice and stuff to take on board..

    I can't decide if it's encouraging or off-putting, though but, let's not put the cart before the horse and all that - I have to get the car mechanically done before it can be cosmetically done!

    I will now begin robbing calor gas cylinders from nearby gardens to build my compressor reservoir system
    Brain says 21, body say FFS, you have aches in every joint, pins and needles in the left scapula, forearm, hand, bad right knee, act at least 50

    If you can build it to ready for paint stage you can certainly have a go at the bodywork, you think bolts not fitting is frustrating, wait till you have gapped the doors, rubbed the body 10 times till its's straight, take the doors off to do the returns and then fit them only to never be able to get them to fit as as before

    Make sure the tall ones, and empty the gas and f the ozone a bit more with the valves open for a few months

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