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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Bournemouth
    Posts
    618
    Quote Originally Posted by zac View Post
    This might be a silly question, but for a few hundred £, I could probably install a NOS system that’d give me a safe (I think!) 75-100hp. Is this a ridiculous/stupid idea? It seems much more cost effective and would only give power on WOT keeping the car very driveable for everyday?
    Would need a new fuel pump I think, but as far as I can tell everything else would be ok stock?
    That is an option but it does load up the engine considerably and is only available for limited spurts. I also think you may need to swap out the camshaft to get the full benefit.
    My personal view is that it’s cheap lazy power. I prefer power to be engineered into an engine. But that is my personal opinion.
    David.

    Life is driving the Cobra. The rest of the time is just waiting................till I fix it!

    Wessex region caretaker rep.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Shipston-On-Stour
    Posts
    617
    What David said! In my view you will get less hassle and more reliable miles doing it 'properly'. You would also have a more enjoyable drive with more torque low down. Just my view......
    Dax with 1964 Dual Quad 427 and Toploader box

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Chelmsford Essex
    Posts
    1,631
    All comes down to budget at the end of the day. You can go down a Elderbrock performance package with head changes and electronic fuel system or change your heads and cam with a re-jet carb.

    A rolling road will tell you a lot and don't be disappointed at the BHP figures at the wheels. If they adjust your timing they can make some large gains and confirm if your AFR is o.k.

    I totally agree with Chris. A road car needs torque as you don't want a screamer and power curve above 4,500 rpm. Also if your upping the power will the gear box take the extra torque.
    Dax 351 Cleveland T5 2.88 PL

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Stroud, Cotswolds
    Age
    35
    Posts
    118
    I guess I’m looking at getting good ‘bang for my buck’. If there is a mod that’ll give me 30hp for £500 or 100hp for £1000 then I’d go for the 100hp increase. Don’t see much point in spending cash on things that then might get upgraded again in the future! Do it once and do it properly.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Shipston-On-Stour
    Posts
    617
    So many options! Do your research before you jump. Here is a top end kit from Summit https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-2098 purporting to get your 350 to 410 hp. A lot depends on the state of your engine but I would expect a big increase over standard, probably not to 410 (that is ideal world/test scenario) but somewhere around high 300's.
    There will be many specialists out there, all with different opinions, and more books than you can shake a stick at! Dig around, plan a route then verify it. I found Brian at Roadcraft very helpful with my little Ford 302 for the GT40. He builds engines and sells everything you might need. https://roadcraftuk.co.uk/index.php?...tegory&path=37 There are other options too.
    Nice winter project!
    Dax with 1964 Dual Quad 427 and Toploader box

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Bournemouth
    Posts
    618
    I wouldn’t call adding NOS doing it properly.
    A few more things to consider with NOS. Is the bottom end up to it? ie, 2 or 4 bolt mains. What conrods do you have? They will be put under substantial duress with that sudden increase in horse power. What pistons are you running? Can they take the extra heat generated? What compression ratio are you running? Will you be at risk of detonation rather than a complete burn?
    NOS as you are probably aware increases the oxygen and nitrogen content of the charge exponentially. The oxygen burns to create heat to expand the nitrogen. Add that to the charge that your engine naturally inhales as standard and you have quite a volatile bang. Make sure your engine is up to the job first otherwise the cheap option could turn out very expensive.
    David.

    Life is driving the Cobra. The rest of the time is just waiting................till I fix it!

    Wessex region caretaker rep.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Hockley ,Essex
    Age
    58
    Posts
    404
    Quote Originally Posted by Darnpistonbroke View Post
    I wouldn’t call adding NOS doing it properly.
    A few more things to consider with NOS. Is the bottom end up to it? ie, 2 or 4 bolt mains. What conrods do you have? They will be put under substantial duress with that sudden increase in horse power. What pistons are you running? Can they take the extra heat generated? What compression ratio are you running? Will you be at risk of detonation rather than a complete burn?
    NOS as you are probably aware increases the oxygen and nitrogen content of the charge exponentially. The oxygen burns to create heat to expand the nitrogen. Add that to the charge that your engine naturally inhales as standard and you have quite a volatile bang. Make sure your engine is up to the job first otherwise the cheap option could turn out very expensive.
    I would agree with all of David's comments on this subject.
    Other thing is what about insurance, I am not sure if they like it or not .
    Can you still use NOS legally ?
    Chris.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Stroud, Cotswolds
    Age
    35
    Posts
    118
    @ChrisP that was the exact one I was looking at. I guess as fairly standard I’m currently looking at 250-300hp as a guess so an increase to high 300s would be a good step up!

    @Darnpistonbroke I wasn’t set on NOS and also know it’s a controversial thing which it why I had in mind a shot size that would be well within the capabilities of a stock engine. I agree with proper engineering being better, but it’s important to consider all of the options/costs I think.

    I’m trying to find the exact spec of my engine and starting with the block the markings are:

    GM 3970010 (back of the block near connection with transmission)
    5664477 (front of the block, drivers side party hidden behind alternator)
    A11 squiggle (drivers side difficult to get to below distribution cap.

    There is also what looks like a clock face of 10 dots with an arrow in it pointing to what could be number 7. No idea what this is. V near the GM number.

    Any help/guidance appreciated!

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    United Kingdom
    Age
    52
    Posts
    418
    I added an EFI kit to a basic SBC350 - better manners - easy hot and cold start and mild power to 320bhp and nice flat torque curve with a 310 ft/lbs peak at 3400rpm. Will looks to add a bit more in due course but fun doing it in stages.

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Bournemouth
    Posts
    618
    IIRC that’s the same block number as mine which means it’s a two bolt main. These blocks are good for upwards of 400 bhp, (some will disagree).
    Mine produces about 260 bhp which is a vast improvement on its original bhp which was 170. I believe the engine came out of a truck. I replaced most things, only retaining the conrods, crankshaft and block. This was twenty years ago when I built the car.
    I wouldn’t mind breaking the 300 bhp mark, anything more in my opinion isn’t really usable. You have to bear in mind that these cars although very different to the original, have a few things in common with the original. Most have carbs. Most do not have PAS. None that I am aware of have ABS, traction control or any form of stability systems. Everything depends on your talent, recognising when things start to go pear shaped and how brave you are. In other words, these cars will try to kill you if given half a chance. So 400+bhp, do you really need it? And can you sensibly use it on the road?
    Big power is a good pub conversation topic but if misused, reality can strike sometimes with devastating consequences.
    There is plenty of literature out there regarding tuning these engines, I have several books of note all of which are still available. Do some research, sort out the b.s, of which there is plenty, from the proper information and make a plan.
    As mentioned previously, a decent Edelbrock set up provided by a knowledgable company like Real Steel will give you what you may be looking for without having to remove the engine, although engine removal in most of these cars is a doddle.
    But if you want BIG power, you may also want to consider your clutch and gearbox too.
    David.

    Life is driving the Cobra. The rest of the time is just waiting................till I fix it!

    Wessex region caretaker rep.

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